What Does It Mean To Be Born Into a Legendary Restaurant Family?
There are dining destinations around the world — from Canlis in Seattle, Washington to Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain — that have been around for decades, even centuries, and continue to be operated by the direct relatives of those who first opened the places.
Today writer Jordana Rothman talks to these people and explores how they feel about carrying on the family business. Did they ever have a choice in the matter? Did they maybe have to put aside their own aspirations to please the family and the public? Or did they want it along, flourishing once given the chance to put their own mark on the restaurant?
History and mythology are packed with tales of fractured bloodlines, reluctant heirs, and inherited errands. Arthurian legend tells of generations of Holy Grail guardians, born into the watch. There’s the unwilling George VI, dragged stuttering into the House of Windsor. And Kim Jong-nam is said to have fallen out of his despot father’s favor after trying to visit Disneyland — no dictatorship for you, young man.
The thing about the prodigal sons, though, is that they almost always come home. What’s bred in the bone, they say, comes out in the flesh.
For barbecue icon Wayne Mueller, that’s especially true.